Hans Wilsdorf founded the second brand of Rolex, Tudor, in 1926. It would go on to become the French Navy’s watch of choice.
Tudor aims to offer the same standards as Rolex, such as Swiss-made products with an Oyster case, at a more affordable price. The only difference is that the movements are assembled rather than manufactured in-house.
An international military turning point.
The Tudor brand quickly became hugely successful with the armed forces around the world. By offering watches that were more affordable and easier to repair, Tudor made it possible to provide divers with highly robust timepieces at a lower cost.
Tudor and the French Navy
The collaboration between Tudor and the French Navy began in the early 1950s. The French Navy was looking for robust, reliable watches for its divers and commandos. The first model issued was the Tudor 7922, which had a small crown. Later, in the late 1950s, the Submariner 7924 — known as the ‘Big Crown’ — was introduced, offering increased water resistance of up to 200 metres.
An iconic Tudor model: the Snowflake
The Tudor Submariner, reference 9401/1 ‘Snowflake’, is one of the most famous models used by the French Navy. With its blue bezel and dial, it embodies the brand’s DNA perfectly. The issue versions feature the engraving ‘MN’ on the back of the watch, along with the year of issue. This partnership has helped to strengthen Tudor’s reputation as a manufacturer of reliable diving watches.
Tudor’s military legacy
Even today, the brand draws on its military heritage, as seen in models such as the Tudor Pelagos FXD. Designed as a tribute to the Tudor watches used by French Navy divers, it features a bidirectional rotating bezel and specifications that meet military requirements.
Today, Tudor watches issued to the French Navy are rare and highly sought after by collectors. Due to the turbulent history of the French Navy, very few remain in good condition.
